Composition for protecting the skin or the hair, containing nanopigments and a solid elastomeric polyorganosiloxane combined with a fatty phase

ABSTRACT

A composition for topical application containing nanopigments and a solid elastomeric polyorganosiloxane combined with a fatty phase, in order to improve the protection factor provided by the nanopigments and stabilize the composition.

This application is a Continuation of application Ser. No. 08/905,782Filed on Jul. 29, 1997, now U.S. Pat. No. 6,013,247.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The present application relates to a composition for topical applicationcontaining nanopigments and a solid elastomeric polyorganosiloxanecombined with a fatty phase, in order to improve theultraviolet-radiation protection factor provided by the nanopigments. Italso relates to the use of a solid elastomeric polyorganosiloxanecombined with a fatty phase, in and/or for the manufacture of acomposition for topical application to care for, treat or make up theskin or to care for the hair, containing nanopigments and having highscreening properties. This composition may be applied to the human face,body and/or legs, as well as to the hands and the scalp.

2. Description of the Background

It is known that light rays with wavelengths of between 280 nm and 400nm permit tanning of the human epidermis, and that rays with wavelengthsmore particularly between 280 nm and 320 nm, known as UVB rays, causeskin burns and erythema which may be harmful to the natural developmentof the tan; this UVB radiation should thus be screened out.

It is also known that UVA rays, with wavelengths of between 320 nm and400 nm, which cause tanning of the skin, are liable to induce an adversechange in the latter, especially in the case of sensitive skin or ofskin which is continually exposed to solar radiation. UVA rays cause inparticular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance ofwrinkles, leading to premature skin ageing. They promote triggering ofthe erythema reaction or amplify this reaction in certain individualsand may even be the cause of phototoxic or photoallergic reactions. Itis thus desirable also to screen out UVA radiation.

Different types of sunscreens for screening out UVA and UVB rays existon the market: pigments and chemical screening agents. These sunscreensmust be able to absorb or block out the harmful rays of the sun while atthe same time remaining harmless to the user.

In this respect, metal oxide pigments are increasingly used in antisunproducts and day products, including make-up, given their properties ofdiffusing and reflecting UV radiation which gives them great value interms of photoprotection: when used alone, they afford good protectionagainst UV rays: when combined with organochemical screening agents,they allow highly photoprotective products to be produced. Thesepigments are preferably used in the form of nanopigments, the screeningproperties of which are well known.

Doctors are becoming increasingly aware that solar rays cause reactionswhich may lead to serious diseases such as skin cancer. Thus, it isincreasingly sought to make antisun products and make-up or careproducts which have high protection factors.

For reasons of stability of these compositions and/or of toxicity on theskin or the mucosae, it is not always possible to use chemical screeningagents or to increase their amounts in order to increase the protectionfactor of compositions containing nanopigments. Thus, the Applicantshave looked into another way of increasing the protection factor ofthese compositions.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The Applicants have found, surprisingly, that by combining nanopigmentswith a solid elastomeric polyorganosiloxane combined with a fatty phase,the screening power of nanopigments is increased and that, accordingly,the protection factor (PF) of the composition containing them ismarkedly improved.

Thus, the subject of the invention is a composition for topicalapplication containing nanopigments of at least one metal oxide,characterized in that it also contains a solid elastomericpolyorganosiloxane combined with a fatty phase, in order to improve theprotection factor provided by the nanopigments.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

EP-A-545,002 describes cosmetic compositions containing a solidelastomeric polyorganosiloxane combined with a fatty phase, and whichmay contain pigments. However, that document does not describe thecombination of such a polyorganosiloxane with nanopigments. In addition,it neither describes nor suggests that the polyorganosiloxane canincrease in this way the protection from the sun provided by thenanopigments.

It is known that nanopigments have the drawback of being difficult tointroduce into cosmetic or dermatological compositions on account oftheir small size. Indeed, the average size of the elementary particlesof nanopigments ranges from 5 to 100 nm and preferably from 10 to 60 nmwhich represents specific surfaces that are ten times larger than thoseof standard pigments.

Consequently, nanopigments are difficult to disperse. Moreover,nanopigments have a tendency to destabilize emulsions containing themand to agglomerate over time or when the composition containing them isspread onto the skin.

In addition to increasing the protection factor, the use of a solidelastomeric polyorganosiloxane according to the invention makes itpossible to obtain a composition containing nanopigments which is stableand in which the nanopigments are fully dispersed, this good state ofdispersion being maintained over time, both in the composition and afterspreading onto the skin or the hair.

Thus, another subject of the invention is the use of a solid elastomericpolyorganosiloxane combined with a fatty phase in a composition fortopical application containing nanopigments, in order to improve thestability of the said composition and/or to give the said composition animproved protection factor.

In addition, the solid elastomeric polyorganosiloxane according to theinvention gives the composition better sensory qualities of spreadingand allows a matt effect and waterproofing to be obtained.

The protection factor (PF) represents the screening power in the UVAregion. This UVA protection factor is determined on the basis of themethod of evaluating the immediate and persistent UVA-inducedpigmentation (Persistent Pigment Darkening: PPD), described by Chardonet al. (Method for the UVA protection assessment of sunscreens based onresidual immediate pigment darkening. 20th Annual Meeting of theAmerican Society for Photobiology, Marco Island, Fla. (USA), Jun. 20-24,1992).

The elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes combined with a fatty phase whichare in accordance with the invention are generally partially or totallycrosslinked and possibly of three-dimensional structure. When includedin a fatty phase, they transform, depending on the level of fatty phaseused, from a product with a spongy appearance, when they are used in thepresence of low contents of fatty phase, into a homogeneous gel, in thepresence of larger amounts of fatty phase.

The elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes combined with a fatty phase of theinvention are generally in the form of a gel consisting of anelastomeric polyorganosiloxane combined with a fatty phase, included inat least one hydrocarbon oil and/or one silicone oil. They may be chosenin particular from the crosslinked polymers described in ApplicationEP-A-0,295,886.

According to that application, they are obtained by addition reactionand crosslinking of at least:

(a) one polyorganosiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups permolecule;

(b) one polyorganosiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms linked toa silicon atom per molecule; and

(c) one platinum-type catalyst.

Lower alkenyl groups may be, for example, vinyl, allyl or propenylgroups. Platinum-type catalyst may be, for example, chloroplatinic acid,chloroplatinic acid-complexes and carrier-supported platinum.

The elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes combined with a fatty phaseaccording to the invention may also be chosen from those described inpatent U.S. Pat. No. 5,266,321.

According to that patent, they are chosen in particular from: i)polyorgano-polysiloxanes comprising units R₂SiO and RSiO_(1.5) andoptionally units R₃SiO_(0.5) and/or SiO₂ in which the radicals R,independently of each other, denote a hydrogen, an alkyl such as methyl,ethyl or propyl, an aryl such as phenyl or tolyl, or an unsaturatedaliphatic group such as vinyl, and in which the weight ratio of theunits R₂SiO to the units RSiO_(1.5) ranges from 1/1 to 30/1;

ii) insoluble polyorganopolysiloxanes which can be swollen in siliconeoil, obtained by addition of an organohydrogenopolysiloxane (1) and apolyorganosiloxane (2) having unsaturated aliphatic groups such that theamount of hydrogen or of unsaturated aliphatic groups in (1) and (2)respectively is between 1 and 20 mol % when the polyorganosiloxane isacyclic and between 1 and 50 mol % when the polyorganosiloxane iscyclic.

The fatty phase combined with the solid elastomeric polyorganosiloxaneconsists of at least one hydrocarbon oil and/or of at least one siliconeoil.

The hydrocarbon oils used according to the invention in combination withthe elastomeric polyorganosiloxane are chosen from oils of animalorigin, oils of plant origin, synthetic oils such as hydrogenatedisoparaffin, synthetic esters and ethers, and mixtures thereof.

The silicone oils used according to the invention in combination withthe elastomeric polyorganosiloxane are preferably chosen from linearpolysiloxanes which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, such asalkylpolysiloxanes, alkylphenylpolysiloxanes andalkylpolydimethylsiloxane, and cyclic polysiloxanes such asoctamethylcyclopentasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; ormixtures thereof.

The polyorganosiloxane is preferably present in the elastomericpolyorganosiloxane/fatty phase mixture in the form of a homogeneous gel,the polyorganosiloxane having a concentration ranging from 3 to 80% byweight.

The gel resulting from this combination and containing the nanopigmentsmay be used as it is and constitute in itself a care or make-upcomposition. It may also be incorporated into a care, treatment ormake-up composition.

In the compositions according to the invention, the elastomericpolyorganosiloxane is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 to 60% andpreferably from 5 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention, the nanopigments may or may not besurface-treated and may be chosen in particular from nanopigments oftitanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anataseform), of iron oxide, of zirconium oxide, of zinc oxide or of ceriumoxide.

The treated nanopigments are pigments which have undergone one or moresurface-treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/ormechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics& Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids,beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins,sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal(titanium or aluminum) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins(collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides, sodiumhexametaphosphate, alumina or glycerol.

The treated nanopigments may more particularly be titanium oxidestreated with:

silica and alumina, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500SA” and “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA” from the company Tayca, andthe products “Tioveil Fin”, “Tioveil OPERATIONS MANAGER”, “Tioveil MOTG”and “Tioveil IPM” from the company Tioxide,

alumina and aluminum stearate, such as the product “MicrotitaniumDioxide MT 100 T” from the company Tayca,

alumina and aluminum laurate, such as the product “Microtitanium DioxideMT 100 S” from the company Tayca,

iron oxides and iron stearate, such as the product “MicrotitaniumDioxide MT 100 F” from the company Tayca,

silica, alumina and silicone, such as the products “MicrotitaniumDioxide MT 100 SAS”, “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS” and“Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS” from the company Tayca,

sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT150 W” from the company Tayca,

octyltrimethoxysilane, such as the product “T-805” from the companyDegussa,

alumina and stearic acid, such as the product “UVT-M 160” from thecompany Kemira,

alumina and glycerol, such as the product “UVT-M212 ” from the companyKemira,

alumina and silicone, such as the product “UVT-M262 ” from the companyKemira.

The untreated titanium oxides may be, for example, those sold by thecompany Tayca under the trade names “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B” or“Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B”.

The untreated zinc oxides may be, for example, those sold by the companySumitomo under the name “Ultra Fine Zinc Oxide Powder” by the companyPresperse under the name “Finex 25”, by the company Ikeda under the name“MZO-25” or by the company Sunsmart under the name “Z-COTE”. The treatedzinc oxides may be, for example, those sold by the company Sunsmartunder the name “Z-COTE HP 1 ”.

The nanopigments may be introduced into the compositions according tothe invention as they are or in the form of a pigmentary paste, that isto say mixed with a dispersing agent, as described, for example, indocument GB-A-2,206,339.

The metal oxide nanopigments may be present in the compositionsaccording to the invention in a proportion ranging from 0.5 to 30%,preferably from 2 to 20%, of the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositionsof the invention, which are preferably cosmetic or dermatologicalcompositions, contain a physiologically acceptable medium, that is tosay one which is compatible with the skin, the scalp and the hair, andmay be used as compositions for protecting the human epidermis or thehair against ultraviolet rays, as antisun compositions or as make-up,treatment or care products for the skin.

The compositions obtained are easy to spread and provide differenteffects depending on the type of nanopigments used. Thus, compositionscontaining nanotitania provide a slight opalescent effect on the skinand lighten the complexion. Moreover, iron oxide nanopigments give anatural, radiant make-up.

The compositions of the invention may be in any pharmaceutical formnormally used for topical application, such as solutions, aqueous oraqueous-alcoholic gels, emulsions, in particular oil-in-water orwater-in-oil emulsions, and more particularly droplets of oil dispersedin spherules in an aqueous phase. These spherules may be polymernanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or, better still,lipid vesicles. The compositions of the invention may be in the form ofa cream, an ointment, a lotion, a milk or a serum.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositionsare anhydrous.

The compositions of the invention may also contain any adjuvantconventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field, in theusual concentrations. These adjuvants are chosen in particular fromgelling agents, preserving agents, opacifiers, emulsifiers,co-emulsifiers, neutralizing agents, fragrances and solubilizing orpeptizing agents thereof, dyestuffs and fillers, as well as lipophilicor hydrophilic active agents and chemical screening agents. Theseadjuvants are present in amounts preferably ranging from 0.01 to 30% ofthe weight of the composition.

Obviously, these adjuvants must be of a nature and concentration suchthat they do not lower the protection factor of the composition and donot destabilize this composition.

In particular, organochemical UVA and/or UVB screening agents may beadded to the compositions according to the invention, the organic UVAscreening agents being added in order to complement the protectiveeffect provided by the nanopigments and the UVB screening agents inorder to avoid sunburn when users of this composition are exposed tosolar rays.

The make-up products generally contain fillers. The term fillers isunderstood to refer to natural or synthetic materials whose mainfunction is to modify the physicochemical (rheological, mechanical,optical) and/or cosmetic properties of a composition. The fillers arecolorless or more or less white in the dry state. They are virtuallytransparent when dispersed in a binder. Among the fillers, mention maybe made of talc, which is a hydrated magnesium silicate, used in theform of particles which are generally smaller than 40 μm; talc possessesmoisture-absorbing properties and is used especially because of itscreamy feel. These fillers are present in amounts preferably rangingfrom 0.01 to 40% of the weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention allow good protection, andin particular good photoprotection, of the skin and/or the hair andconsequently have an effect on the photoinduced ageing of the skin aswell as on the wrinkles and/or fine lines on the skin which are inducedby solar radiation.

Thus, the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the compositionas defined above for protecting the skin and/or the hair and/or forcombating photoinduced ageing of the skin and/or for combating wrinklesand/or fine lines on the skin which are induced by solar radiation.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition as definedabove for the manufacture of a dermatological composition intended toprotect the skin and/or the hair and/or combat photoinduced ageing ofthe skin and/or combat wrinkles and/or fine lines on the skin which areinduced by solar radiation.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic and/or dermatological processfor the photoprotection of the skin and/or the hair, characterized inthat an effective amount of the composition as defined above is appliedto the skin and/or the hair.

Lastly, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic and/or dermatologicalprocess for combating photoinduced ageing and/or for combating wrinklesand/or fine lines on the skin which are induced by solar radiation,characterized in that an effective amount of the composition as definedabove is applied to the skin.

The example which follows serves to illustrate the invention without,however, being limiting in nature. In this example, the composition isgiven as a % by weight.

Example: Anhydrous facial balm

Phase A: Partially crosslinked polydimethylorgano- 20%siloxane/polydimethylsiloxane 6 cst (sold under the name KSG 16 by thecompany Kose) Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane   28.95% Modified hectorite(Miglyol gel B sold by the company 30% Huls) (gelling agent) Phase B:Nanotitanium oxide (microtitanium dioxide MT100 T sold 10% by thecompany Tayca) Hydrogenated isoparaffin (polysynlane sold by the  9%company Nippon Oils Fats Phase C: Talc  6%

Procedure

Phases A and B are prepared separately. Phase A is homogenized at roomtemperature. In order to prepare phase B, the nanotitanium oxides aregradually sprinkled into the oil with stirring; stirring is continuedfor 30 minutes and the mixture is then ground. Phase B is added to phaseA. The mixture is homogenized and phase C is sprinkled in.

The white balm obtained has a protection factor of about 14.4 and may beused on facial skin as a day cream or as a foundation for correctingimperfections in the complexion before applying make-up.

The anti-UVA protection afforded by this balm was compared with thatobtained using water-in-oil (W/O) and oil-in-water (O/W) emulsionscontaining an identical amount of the same nanotitanias.

As shown above, the protection factors PF are determined according tothe PPD method. The tests are carried out on the backs of individuals,on whom regions of skin with a surface area of about 7.5 cm² aredelimited. The test product is only applied on certain regions. Fifteenminutes after applying the product, all the regions (those which havereceived the product and the others) are exposed to UVA produced by a150 W xenon arc lamp fitted with WG 335 and UG 11 filters, deliveringultraviolet radiation doses of from 5 to 38 joules/cm², these dosesbeing in a geometrical progression of 50%.

The minimum pigmenting dose (MPD), that is to say the dose which givesrise to the first pigmentation reaction that is unambiguouslyperceptible to the eye and homogeneous, is determined for a regionprotected with the test product (protected MPD) and for a region onwhich no product has been applied (unprotected MPD).

The protection factor is the ratio between protected MPD and unprotectedMPD:${PF} = \frac{{protected}\quad {MPD}}{{unprotected}\quad {MPD}}$

The results were as follows:

Composition PF obtained Example according to the invention 18.34 W/Oemulsion 17.06 O/W emulsion 13.48

These results show that addition of the elastomeric polyorganosiloxaneaccording to the invention appreciably improves the protection factorprovided by the nanopigments. The difference in protection factorbetween the W/O emulsion and the example according to the invention issignificant.

The disclosure of priority France application 96-09525, filed Jul. 29,1996, is hereby incorporated by reference.

Obviously, numerous modifications and variations of the presentinvention are possible in light of the above teachings. It is thereforeto be understood that within the scope of the appended claims, theinvention may be practiced otherwise than as specifically describedherein.

What is claimed as new and desired to be secured by Letters Patent ofthe United States is:
 1. A skin care or make-up composition, comprising:a gel composition containing nanopigments of at least one metal oxidehaving an ultraviolet radiation protection factor property, andultraviolet radiation protection factor improving amounts of a solidelastomeric polyorganosiloxane that is partially or totallycross-linked, and a fatty phase comprising a hydrocarbon oil or asilicon oil.
 2. The skin care or make-up composition of claim 1, whichis in a form selected from the group consisting of an oil-in-wateremulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, and droplets of oil dispersed inspherules in an aqueous phase.
 3. The skin care or make-up compositionof claim 1, which is anhydrous.
 4. A method for protecting the skin orhair, comprising: applying an effective amount to the skin or hair ofthe composition of claim
 1. 5. A method for combating photoinduced agingof the skin or for combating wrinkles or fine lines on the skin,comprising: applying an effective amount to the skin of the compositionof claim
 1. 6. A method for improving the ultraviolet radiationprotection factor or stability of a skin care or make-up composition,comprising: adding to said composition a solid elastomericpolyorganosiloxane combined with a fatty phase in protection factorimproving amounts or stability improving amounts.